And Bon Appétit to you too!

One of the perks of belonging to the International Association of Culinary Professionals is that people give you things. I’ve had an expensive skillet, a top-of-the-line chef’s knife, magazines, and lots of other goodies show up, gratis. Bon Appétit, one magazine I often buy (don’t tell them), now materializes unbidden in my mailbox.

Don’t let that stack of syrupy pancakes on the cover fool you; the February issue of Bon Appétit magazine got it mostly right. The cover says “The Green Issue / Feel Good Food.” And it delivers.

– “The Meat of the Matter,” by Bruce Aidells: His “Eco-friendly Meat Guide” lists bison, grass-fed beef, heritage pork, period. His recipes brought tears to my eyes…I remember dishes like these…ones that have all but disappeared from American tables.

– “Why I’m Not a Vegetarian,” by Molly Wizenberg. This is Molly’s first article for Bon Appétit. It seems she was discovered via her food blog Orangette, where she’s been blogging away since 2004. This is food writing and photography to be digested at a leisurely pace, savoring every morsel. I haven’t read through her archives yet, but they are like a treasure trove waiting to be discovered. (The reason she’s not a vegetarian? Sausage.)

– Nina Planck, author of Real Food, takes a stand against fat phobia in “Health Wise / Just the Fats.” She gives “the straight story on trans fats and some good advice…butter is better.” Here’s another quote: “Use the fat of our fore-mothers: butter, lard, even coconut oil. On closer inspection, it’s clear that natural saturated fats are good for you.”

By the way, the pancakes on the cover are whole grain and the blueberries are wild. We’d probably all still be able to eat them if we didn’t have metabolisms that have been compromised by trans fats, white flour, fructose, and junk. We might even be able to handle an occasional coconut cupcake like the one on page 122 or the banana pie on 120 if we had never eaten anything but good, natural, real food.

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